Porch Enclosure

I want to install a small 12 volt DC fan inside weather enclosure (containing a security camera) to protected it from the summer heat. I want the fan to automatically turn on at 95 degrees to help ventilate the camera. I can only think of installing a thermostat from an air conditioner unit inside the enclosure. Is there a better way. I have visited electronic suppy stores and can’t find anything that would help keep the camera cool. (I have only heaters for these units).
Any suggestions?

You need a greenhouse thermal fan switch.

http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml

have a 2003 BMW 325i with 2 12" Alpine Type R SWR-1242D DVC subwoofers (500w rms) and a Kicker ZX450.2 amp sitting in a ported enclosure with a Dual XD7600 head unit. I am in the market for a new amp and have $300 to spend. I narrowed it down to three different amps to choose from: Kicker ZX1000.1 class D mono amp, Alpine MRP-M1000 mono class D amp, and JL Audio A1400 mono class D amp. I am looking for the best amp for my subwoofers. Also, I am more than willing to take suggestions of better amps for my subs and in the range of $300. I also would like to have the amp be compatible with my vehicle set up too: I haven’t upgraded my alternator, I haven’t swapped out my stock battery, and I haven’t upgraded my Big 3 wires. I need the knowledge of some real audio electronic guru’s on which amp would be the most compatible and the cleanest sounding & hardest hitting amp with my subwoofers. It has to stay just at or below $300 and it has to be compatible with my setup. Anything would help!!
Also, I wanted to let it be known that i’m also looking for an amplifier in that price range that will not cut off or "clip" whenever I turn the volume past 30-35. One that will also work with the stock electrical system that my vehicle has. Thanks

If you’re narrowing between only those 3, rule out the JL A1400. You won’t increase power much from your ZX450.2. In one of my cars I switched from a ZX350.2 to an A1400 and found very little difference.

Either the Kicker or Alpine will work fine.

I have a 2003 BMW 325i with 2 12" Alpine Type R SWR-1242D subwoofers and 2 Kenwood KAC-8103D 1000 watt amps sitting in a ported enclosure with a Dual XD7600 head unit. I am very aware that my amplifiers are underpowering my subwoofers. I just purchased a Kicker ZX450.2 amplifier. My first question is with this new amp, will I be able to feel the difference? My next question is what is the best way to setup my amps to my subs? Meaning, should I setup 1 1000watt Kenwood & the Kicker amp, or should I setup 2 1000watt Kenwoods & the Kicker amp? How should the setup be wired? I need to know what would be the the best setup to get the most out of my system? Unfortunately, at this time, I cannot afford to upgrade my system by any means so I need some true electronic (specifically car audio electronic) gurus to inform me of what I can do to my already installed system to make it better (more reliable, safer, & better-sounding). Anything would help but I would appreciate serious answers. Thanks

Car stereo design is a complex subject that CANNOT be learned by a few answers here. You need to go out and research and LEARN what makes a good install. I would start on www. sounddomain.com. Explore the forums and study the descriptions and pictures. Search on Yahoo! or google and try different search terms relating to car stereo design and installation. This will take some time. Be prepared.

So I know that metal blocks radio waves, but would it be possible to reach a device in a metal enclosure if an antenna was incorporated onto the metal enclosure?

You could run a coaxial cable into a Faraday cage and bring in radio signals that way. You could connect that cable to an antenna inside the cage. A radio receiver inside the cage could receive that signal. Is that what you’re asking?

This is sometimes done for auto tunnels, so people can keep listening to the radio while driving through the tunnel.

I ask this due to the fact that my laptop caught a power surge sometime in the night and wasn’t simply the psu. ..its in for diagnosic presently so I should what accually this issues is very soon..I replaced the lcd about year ago for a hefty price and id like to recoop that in some way, a friend gave me his frag box (those computer savvy fellows should know what that is) but no monitor for it and I cannot afford a new one or hardly fix the broken laptop. So in conclusion id like to know if its possible( I’m sure it is possible but is it reasonable) to modify the laptop lcd to work on my pc..I am savvy to computers and small electronic and I realize that I would have to figure out the pin set on the lcd ribbon and figure out some kind of power convertion system, along with an enclosure to put it in. I’m aware that the laptop monitor should act as a stand alone but with the laptop broken that won’t work ..any input would be much apreciated, thank you….oh its a toshiba satellite m55 laptop lcd.

Not reasonable.

The reason is there is no "port" between the video card and the display in a laptop, unlike a desktop video card, which have to route the output through VGA/DVI ports. No such port is in a laptop.

So in order to make the LCD work with a desktop, you have to somehow create such a port for the LCD.

So no, not reasonable.

EDIT: that instructable piece does NOT actually do what it says. What it actually did was it "hid" the guts of the laptop behind the panel, so in essence you are remote-controlling that "monitor", which is actually a computer. You don’t have a true monitor.

—
Kasey C, PC guru since Apple II days
Error, no keyboard - press F1 to continue.

i want to have own customized enclosure for my electronic product. pls provide some enclosure manufacturer from kolkata

You can contact PHOENIX CONTACT or RITTAL who make custom enclosures to profession standards - both have there presence in India.
Do you have your comprehensive enclosure specification ?

I have full range Leslie speakers in three of my organs and I don’t really jam out Hammond tone wheel organ music as much as every other type of electronic organ sound ( which gets slighted by die hard Hammond players. Okay Hammond is king, but there really are other organs that can produce incredible sounds, just not thee incredible sound). My need for a top rotor is not a total necessity like a Hammond player might desire so I can’t justify buying anything. Not only that, I have a huge Wurlitzer 310 tone cabinet from 1946 that has a top ‘drum rotor’ except it’s steel and 1 speed ( actually Wurlitzer called it a Vibrato baffle) and positioned over a 10 inch feild coil speaker facing up. There are two big tube amps in the top too, identical to each other, each with a pair of 6L6’s, a 6SL7, and a 5U4 ( rectifier tube). Below in the same large open enclosure which also houses the 10 inch is a 15 inch field coil speaker facing down ( no drum or baffle, just straight low end). The organ that is playing through this beast is a 1946 Wurlitzer Electrostatic reed organ ( NOT reeds like on an old pump organ, but a fully electronic system for generating tone like the tone wheel is to the pick-up, but instead of a spinning conductive wheel, the reeds vibration motion varies the capacitance of a high voltage charge which is conducted through the reeds opposing stable pick-up side. there are 3 different points on the reed assembly for each and every note on the organ so many tone variations can be achieved. Ironically, this organ doesn’t even need an upper rotor. I have a Thomas Palace III that I think can benefit from it’s use and I’d like to be able to use the 310 cabinet for either organ. I’ve already got a switch box to choose the organs at the tone cabinet.

So if anyone has a simple afternoon home made Leslie TOP ROTOR that can be thrown together with simple parts like a sewing machine motor etc. post it to youtube and give me a heads up I’m paulj0557

you can try fixya.com for more help with that

So my old laptop fell apart after only 2 years. First the screen bezel decided to crack (making closing of the laptop impossible) but it was still functional. Then the video card went, and being that the laptop was already in poor condition, I decided to replace it (with another HP for some reason).

My issue is that I have some data (previous tax returns, financial info, and old work data) that is rather sensitive. I would just send it to an electronic shredding company, but I at least need my old tax returns (and some family photographs would be nice to get as well).

Because of the sensitive data, I would prefer to extract whats on the hard drive myself rather than have someone at Best Buy or where ever do it for me. I have read they make enclosures, but the one i bought previously did not have the proper ports to make the connection.Can anyone recommend a brand that will extract from a Seagate Momentus 5400.2 100gb serial at HDD? How difficult is it to extract data such as word docs, PDF’s, photo’s etc? I would consider myself MODERATELY computer literate.

Thanks in advance!
-John
It looks like its a sata I think. I know my description will be stupid but… its two sets of ports one longer section that has 3 small contacts then a large contact then 7 small then a large contact followed by three smaller contacts. The other port which is right next to the previously described port is a port that has 7 smaller contacts. I know this is a terrible way of describing this, but I really have no other way of doing such. Is it a sata? If I take my HDD into best buy, could they direct me to the proper product or tell me what it is that I have?

If it is a Serial ATA drive, just buy a 2.5" SATA USB drive enclosure. They are available everywhere.
As long as the drive is spinning and mounts to the operating system, it just a matter of locating the files on the hard drive and dragging them to an appropriate folder on the new machine.

The hard drive fell and hit the ground so that the mini USB was jammed into the port, since then the device will not turn on. I cannot find a replacement enclosure and since there is a lot of information on the drive, I would much prefer to get it working again. Would it be possible to open it up and fix the connections? I have little experience fixing electronic devices.

Just get another SATA to USB enclosure.

i need to design a electronic enclosure complying with MIL810F, Milling is always a safer option …..but i want go with sheet metal.
Do you know any website where i can look at/read about such a design?

Thank you

We build boxes like that, but ours are made from milling aluminum and bolting all sides together with a high-strength bolt spaced every 1" apart. We used to ‘hog’ out a solid aluminum block and bolt on a lid, until we found out that you could put one together with bolts.

That’s the main key though — high-strength bolts every 1", or so, on all edges, torqued down tight. You’ll have to flange out your sheet metal somehow.

One project I worked on — the box AND the inner pc-boards withstood 55 g RMS random!! That was cool.

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