If so, where is a shop or a website were i can give exact measurements of my trunk to get a custom subwoofer enclosure?
problem isnt your trunk. the problem is the "opening" to your trunk. i found boxes on ebay for 2 15’s in sealed enclosure that are "slanted" so you can fit them in and there extremely cheap, like 50-60 shipped. that would be your best bet
i have a 2001 3 series bmw and i am getting jl audio component systems and i want to know what is the best amp for my powerwedge jl audio cs310rg-w1v2 which is three tens in a manufactured enclosure and i want it to bumb down the street and around the corner
Power rating is 900w rms and the final impedance is 2.7 ohms.
The obvious choice would be the JL 1000/1. It is $650-700 new on line.
Otherwise you’re looking for a 2 ohm stable amp that will give you 1200w+ at 2 ohms - the extra impedance would reduce power to something closer to the rated power for the enclosure.
Cerwin Vega Stroker 2000.1, Pioneer PRS-D2000SPL, Kicker Zx1500.1, JBL GTO-14001
i want to make a dual ported 12" box enclosure
There’s no such thing as a ’standard’ ported enclosure.
Some things to know http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
i am tring to find the best enclosure type for my (2) 12" solo baric speakers. the trunk in my bmw 528i is pretty big but i want to make sure it still leaves me space for regular stuff.
Ground shaker enclosures are the bomb…. you can find a cheap one on onlinecarstereo.com … i have a ported one for 2 15" L7s and the box sounds great
Right now i am looking at putting 2, 50-300 watts RMS, 900watts peak, 10" Alpine subs in the back of my 2000 chevy S-10 ZR2 Extended cab truck. What would be the best type of sub-enclosure? I listen to mostly hard rock and some rap if that matters, so i think i want something with a lot of thump. Also, is there any advantage to having 2 seperate boxes, or one box with 2 sub enclosures? Thanks.
You neglect to say how large the amplifier is that will be driving this subwoofer - that is key.
You should use an amplifier that is at least 6 times the power of your "satelite" or front speakers in your truck. If you love bass, use 8 times. My home system has 60 watts for all the satelites, and 500 for my 15" sub … just a reference point.
Given, then, that you have enough power, you should go with a SEALED enclosure. A sealed enclosure is slightly less efficient, but it has a deeper frequency response and a flatter sound - many ported enclosures will "boom" at a specific note or frequency - VERY annoying. If you have enough power behind the sub, then the efficiency does not matter and thus everything else is a benefit.
The THICKNESS of the wall is important in a subwoofer. If the particle board is not at least 3/4" thick, move on to something else.
Lastly - 1 or 2 enclosures. Ideally, the answer is 1 enclosure - then the two speakers can "couple" and work together to move more air - and get deeper and louder. However, things change in a car. In theory, low base tones are non-directional - your ear can’t tell where they are coming from. But in a small enclosure like your truck, your brain will figure it out. Having two cabinets will allow you to evenly distribute the thump in your cab.
Bonus: one thing I’ve seen done is removing the seat in your rear cab and replacing it with a subcabinet that is the width of your truck, but only like 6" high, with foam and upholstry to match and act like a seat. Its been known to make girlfriends very happy.
Best.
I am making a custom subwoofer enclosure, but i need to know how to build a connection terminal such as the ones in industrial sub boxes. It looks like a small clamp or a screw on clamp.
my favorite way which is really simple and obvious is just drill a small hole to put the wires through. This can be handy if your trying to make a very clean install and hide the wires
where can i download the program to measure sub woofer enclosure dimensions and ports diameters? thank you
WinISD
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro
I also have Bluabox.exe. A program by Blaupunkt (DOS based, works in XP just fine) that I’ve used to design boxes with. Your more than welcome to have a copy.
sparky3489@yahoo.com
i would use 3/4 inch medium density fiberboard, it works the best for sound quality, and also looks. speaker cover fabric, helps when applying fiberglass. steel mesh to help suport it better. and also body filler to help it look like a pro.
Does anyone know where I can get a ford ranger regular cab dual 10 sub enclosure?
partsexpress.com part# 267-071 with 2 10′mtx($150) or 2 single empty truck boxes 260-636($20 each)
just wondering if you could go deaf or do serious damage to your ears with a system like this…i know there are way better systems out there but i really dont know anything about this stuff…if anyone can answer this seriously for me it would be healpfull..
Here is a good link about nhl noise-induced hearing loss
http://www.dangerousdecibels.org/hearingloss.cfm
It says anything over 85db (busy city traffic) can start to affect your hearing. I would guess your system being at about 125db (can’t say if its any more than that without the box dimensions and you actually having your stereo system metered)
Most generally I would say 125db won’t affect your hearing much if you only listen to it for a couple blocks. But i’m not a doctor! 