Porch Enclosure

I calculated the volume of my box, and got a number thats over what my subs prefer for a non ported box. In the conquest for better sound, are there any reasonable solutions to reducing the internal volume by adding say…Packing peanuts or kittens?
Volume as in internal space, like leiters, not volume as in db. Just to clarify.

Unless the enclosure is vastly larger than specification, the sound quality may actually be improved as well as an increase in spl. Try acoustic dampening mats, dynamat or even pieces of MDF acting as additional bracing. These will reduce enclosure resonance and "clear" up the noise. Also, the volume your driver displaces must be subracted from the enclosure volume. Hope this helps.

What is better for a sub enclousre. Fibreglass, MDF or Plexiglass and why?

I have seen that Plexiglas makes a real buzzing sound when the sub hits because of the thinness. I personally go with 3/4 MDF it makes a real great seal and can take a beating from big subs. MDF boxes just sound the best in my opinion. Never seen a fiberglass one

i have an suv and ther’s really no good place to mount it. and i don’t want it rolling around freely. will i lose any sound quality or have any type of problems? suggestions? it’s a 96 bravada if that means anything to u

Yes you can and it is probably better for the sound quality as the total mass of the box will increase hence reducing the natural vibration frequency of the whole sub unit.

The Probox 210SB(The enclosure company is Probox and the model is 210SB), I want to make sure a new sub-woofer i want to purchase will fit in it the speaker is a "SPL SP3-10".

Here are specs i found for that woofer.
Minimum Sealed Box Volume0.75 cubic feet
Maximum Sealed Box Volume0.75 cubic feet
Minimum Ported Box Volume1.5 cubic feet
Maximum Ported Box Volume1.5 cubic feet
And from the site im looking @ and the boxes they should work since they are .75cf or close to it.
And a lil tip add some Pollyfill which u can find in any craft store 1lb per box should work.

If so, where is a shop or a website were i can give exact measurements of my trunk to get a custom subwoofer enclosure?

problem isnt your trunk. the problem is the "opening" to your trunk. i found boxes on ebay for 2 15’s in sealed enclosure that are "slanted" so you can fit them in and there extremely cheap, like 50-60 shipped. that would be your best bet

i have a 2001 3 series bmw and i am getting jl audio component systems and i want to know what is the best amp for my powerwedge jl audio cs310rg-w1v2 which is three tens in a manufactured enclosure and i want it to bumb down the street and around the corner

Power rating is 900w rms and the final impedance is 2.7 ohms.
The obvious choice would be the JL 1000/1. It is $650-700 new on line.

Otherwise you’re looking for a 2 ohm stable amp that will give you 1200w+ at 2 ohms - the extra impedance would reduce power to something closer to the rated power for the enclosure.
Cerwin Vega Stroker 2000.1, Pioneer PRS-D2000SPL, Kicker Zx1500.1, JBL GTO-14001

i want to make a dual ported 12" box enclosure

There’s no such thing as a ’standard’ ported enclosure.

Some things to know http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

i am tring to find the best enclosure type for my (2) 12" solo baric speakers. the trunk in my bmw 528i is pretty big but i want to make sure it still leaves me space for regular stuff.

Ground shaker enclosures are the bomb…. you can find a cheap one on onlinecarstereo.com … i have a ported one for 2 15" L7s and the box sounds great

Right now i am looking at putting 2, 50-300 watts RMS, 900watts peak, 10" Alpine subs in the back of my 2000 chevy S-10 ZR2 Extended cab truck. What would be the best type of sub-enclosure? I listen to mostly hard rock and some rap if that matters, so i think i want something with a lot of thump. Also, is there any advantage to having 2 seperate boxes, or one box with 2 sub enclosures? Thanks.

You neglect to say how large the amplifier is that will be driving this subwoofer - that is key.

You should use an amplifier that is at least 6 times the power of your "satelite" or front speakers in your truck. If you love bass, use 8 times. My home system has 60 watts for all the satelites, and 500 for my 15" sub … just a reference point.

Given, then, that you have enough power, you should go with a SEALED enclosure. A sealed enclosure is slightly less efficient, but it has a deeper frequency response and a flatter sound - many ported enclosures will "boom" at a specific note or frequency - VERY annoying. If you have enough power behind the sub, then the efficiency does not matter and thus everything else is a benefit.

The THICKNESS of the wall is important in a subwoofer. If the particle board is not at least 3/4" thick, move on to something else.

Lastly - 1 or 2 enclosures. Ideally, the answer is 1 enclosure - then the two speakers can "couple" and work together to move more air - and get deeper and louder. However, things change in a car. In theory, low base tones are non-directional - your ear can’t tell where they are coming from. But in a small enclosure like your truck, your brain will figure it out. Having two cabinets will allow you to evenly distribute the thump in your cab.

Bonus: one thing I’ve seen done is removing the seat in your rear cab and replacing it with a subcabinet that is the width of your truck, but only like 6" high, with foam and upholstry to match and act like a seat. Its been known to make girlfriends very happy.

Best.

I am making a custom subwoofer enclosure, but i need to know how to build a connection terminal such as the ones in industrial sub boxes. It looks like a small clamp or a screw on clamp.

my favorite way which is really simple and obvious is just drill a small hole to put the wires through. This can be handy if your trying to make a very clean install and hide the wires