Porch Enclosure

I need an additional hard drive to store large image files. I will be keeping the drive plugged into the computer and running whenever the computer is on, as I need to access the files throughout the day. I think I’ve settled on a Western Digital Caviar Black 640 GB for the drive, and now I need an enclosure for it. Should I get a case with a fan, or will it do to use an aluminum case with no fan?
The drive is 7200 RPM

I agree speed makes a huge difference with the answer, however let me add a couple quick items.

All heat is evil when i comes to computer components BUT small fans are hard to replace when they go bad and they get really noisy so if at all possible find an enclosure that has some natural air flow vents.

GL

I need an additional hard drive to store large image files. I will be keeping the drive plugged into the computer and running whenever the computer is on, as I need to access the files throughout the day. I think I’ve settled on a Western Digital Caviar Black 640 GB for the drive, and now I need an enclosure for it. Should I get a case with a fan, or will it do to use an aluminum case with no fan?
The drive is 7200 RPM

I agree speed makes a huge difference with the answer, however let me add a couple quick items.

All heat is evil when i comes to computer components BUT small fans are hard to replace when they go bad and they get really noisy so if at all possible find an enclosure that has some natural air flow vents.

GL

Of course it can. I think it was Einstein who said it is difficult to make things fool proof because fools are so damn ingenious. The question is: is this a wise thing to do? The answer is: it depends. What type of environment is it going into? How long do you expect it to last? What are the consequences if it fails? Give some thought to the engineering design considerations and, if necessary, get familiar with the concepts of corrosion, creep, fatigue, CTE mismatch, and similar processes. Then make an engineering judgment. So long as you have thought it through and can justify your answer in due regard to the consequences of failure, you should be fine.

I have a pair of MA HK100XC 10 inch subs. here are the specs:Power Handling Capabilities:
1000 Watts
500 Watts RMS
Patented Chrome Die Cast Basket
Compatible with Sealed and Ported Enclosures
Dual 4-Ohm Aluminum Voice Coil
240 Oz. (15 pound) Double Stacked Magnet
Mounting Depth: 5.8"
Mounting Diameter: 9.3"

what is the best amp to power those the best way possible? also with those subs being powered would i need to get a high output alternator and change the wires to my battery and the ground wires? Thanks in advance for your answers.

with those subs (4ohm DVC) you can wire them up to get impedance’s of 1 or 4ohms on one amp (you could power each sub with its own amp and get impedance’s of 2 or 8ohms)- the lower the impedance at the amp the lower the sound quality but the easier/cheaper it is to power (most amps are not stable below 2ohms and would run hot and go into protection mode a lot)
here is a link to help you with your wiring options http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

so the amp needed will have 1000watts RMS @ the correct impedance (or two 500watts RMS amps) also go for a mono amp, not a 2channel amp- here is a nice site to get your amp from (low prices) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

as far as the big three, it depends on the make of your car, if it is a truck/suv with a v8 you should be ok, if its a smaller car you may need to upgrade

Hey, i have two MA Audio HK120XC Subwoofer, and i need to know what type of amplifier do i need to run these subs. what watt amp do i need to be able to get my full power out of my subwoofers, but also just make them sound good, and loud when i need them too! heres the info on the subs:

12 Inch Competition Sub
Power Handling Capabilities:
1200 Watts
600 Watts RMS
Patented Chrome Die Cast Basket
Compatible with Sealed and Ported Enclosures
Dual 4-Ohm Aluminum Voice Coil
240 Oz. (15 pound) Double Stacked Magnet
Mounting Depth: 6.5”
Mounting Diameter: 11.2”
Optimum Vented Box: 2.0Cu/Ft
Round Port Diameter: 4” x 8” Inch
Square Port Area: 3” x 6” x 12.75”
Optimum Sealed Box 1.0 Cubic Feet
Tuning: @ 40Hz

This is a brand new single, factory sealed, never been opened MA Audio HK120XC, 12 inch competition subwoofer which sells in stores nationwide for $359.99 each plus sales tax. This sub will handle up to 1,200 watts of rock solid pounding bass. It has a chrome die cast basket to help control the speaker and make it look good as well. Features include a reinforced ribbed high foam surround, a polypropylene dust cap, a 240 Oz. double stacked magnet (that’s 15 pounds!), copper wound voice coil, and a rubber sealant gasket. When you really want to drive your amp to the max, wire a pair of these dual voice coil 4-ohm subs up to get a 1 ohm load on your amp. This will enable your amp to produce maximum power. You can also wire a single sub to achieve a 2 or 8 ohm load. Complete with wiring diagrams, specs for building your own sealed or ported box and a full 2 year warranty all in a factory sealed box. WARNING: This sub is capable of producing dangerously loud SPL levels.

here are your wiring options http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=42, so you can get a 1 or 4ohm load at the amp
so the amp you need will have about 1200watts RMS @ the correct impedance (1 or 4ohms), and is CEA-compliant (makes or exceeds the advertised wattage with minimal distortion)
if you go the 4ohm route it will require more wattage because of the impedance (ohms) but sound clearer than at 1ohm. Also, 1ohm stable CEA-compliant amps are harder to find (Fosgate makes them), get a mono class D because they run cooler and are made just for subs
here are the top CEA-compliant brands
Alpine
Bazooka
Blaupunkt
Clarion
Eclipse
Infinity
JBL
JL Audio
Kenwood
Kicker
MTX
Pioneer
Polk Audio
Rockford Fosgate
Sony

i have a 2 channel bridgable amp and 2 12in dvc woofers whats the best way to wire them in a series or 1 channel for each sub or what the specs for everything are below

woofer specs

1000 Watts Max Power
500 Watts RMS Power
Dual Voice Coils
Aluminum Cone
Rubber Surround
Coated Tinsel leads
Double Magnet Structure
Oversized Vented 4- Layer Voice Coil
Bumped T-Yoke
Double Damper
Gold Plated Spring Loaded Terminals
Aluminum Die-Cast Basket
Recommended Sealed Enclosure 1.25 Cubic ft

amp specs

Specifications Blue Neon Lighting
Maximum Power Output 1000 Watts x 2

2000 Watts Bridge

Power Output @ 2 Ohm 300 watts x 2
Power Output @ 4 Ohm 200 watts x 2
Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm 600 Watts x 1
THD @ 2 Ohm <.1%
Channel Separation 55dB
Frequency Response 1.0dB 15Hz-30Khz
HPF (High Pass Filter) 50Hz - 1

Check this out and see if it helps:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp

I have two Kenwood KFC-W3010 12" Subs and one Legacy LW1557D 15" Sub

Online Specs

Kenwood Specs
300 mm Pearl Mica Injection P.P. Cone Woofer / “Typhoon” Shape Rigid Diaphragm / Dual Magnet Drive / High Roll Surround / Easy SB terminal / Aluminum Model Name Plate for Back Side Installation / Sealed or Ported Type Installation Capability
Peak Power 1000 W
Maximum Input Power 400 W
Rated Input Power 200 W
Sensitivity 93 dB
Voice coil 4 Ohm
Frequency response 25 ~ 800 Hz
Mounting depth 135 mm
Size 328 x 328 x 156 mm
Magnet weight 1.800 gr
Net weight 4.850 gr
Enclosure size sealed / ported 28,3 l / 42,5 l
Port size Ř 76 mm x 178 mm

Legacy Specs
Red Aluminum Cone
Specially Treated Rubber Edge Suspension
Bumped & Vented Motor Structure
High Temperature Dual 2.5” Kapton Voice Coil
Double Magnet Structure
4 Ohm Impedance
700 Watts RMS/1400 Watts Peak
SPL @ 1W/1M: 92dB
Overall Diameter: 15.16”
Mounting Depth: 7.13”
Magnet Weight: 80 + 80 oz.

3400 watts

15" Crunch Groundpounder
SPECIFICATIONS
700 Watts RMS
1400 Watts Max
Blue Illuminated Speaker Cone
2-Ohm Dual Voice Coils
100 Oz. Double Stacked Magnet Assembly
2.5” 4-Layer Hi-Temp
Aluminum Voice-Coils
Chrome Steel Speaker Frame
w/ Rubber Front Gasket
Glass-Kevlar Woven Dust Cap
Integrated Spider-Tinsel Lead
1.2” Reinforced Rubber Surround
Rubber Magnet Boot
Chromed Back-Plate
Push Terminals Connections
Sealed Enclosure Volume:
2.0 (Cubic Ft.)
Vented Enclosure Volume:
2.5 (Cubic Ft.)
Sold Individually

AMP is a HIFONICS ZX-6400 ZEUS 700watt RMS

can be found at :

http://www.pimpmycar.net/brands_hifonics-amp-multi-channel-zx-6400.html

let me know what you guys think about this setup need to purchase tomorrow 4/1/2007.

Thanks

you dont want a 4channel amp to power a sub. get a mono amp that pushes around 700rms, unless ur using 2 subs then u want it pushing around 1400rms.

Ok hopefully my final question!
I decided to go with the Rockford Fosgate - Punch 12" 4-Ohm Dual Subwoofers with Enclosure - Black/Silver

Now (remeber im new to car audio) what kind of amp should i get for this sub?
Here are the product features for Sub:
# Includes two 12" subwoofers and a dual subwoofer enclosure
# Handles up to 500W peak power (250W RMS)
# High-modulus closed conical polypropylene
# Die-cast aluminum motor cover
# Vented enclosure
# Double-stacked magnets
# High-flow, low-noise port design; wired for the included subwoofers
# Frequency response: 26Hz-250Hz
# Impedence: 4 ohms
# Sensitivity: 86dB

Here are some amps im looking at:
1)Rockford Fosgate - Punch 600W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel Amplifier (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8266388&st=+P200-2+amp&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1170289781181)
* 600W peak output @ 4 ohms, bridged
* 600W peak output @ 2 ohms
* 300W peak output @ 4 ohms
* 200W RMS (continuous), bridged
* 200W RMS (continuous) @ 2 ohms
* 100W RMS (continuous) @ 4 ohms
* Adjustable 40-400Hz crossover
* Dynamic Thermal Management prevents overheating
* Bass boost; on-board Punch EQ
* 4-gauge power and ground input
2)Sony - Xplod 500W Bridgeable Multichannel Amplifier
(http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8383714&type=product&id=1179165803051)
* 500 watts peak power
* 50W x 4 RMS power @ 4 ohms, <1% THD
* 95W x 2 + 250W x 1 @ 4 ohms
* 80Hz high-pass/low-pass filter switch
* Frequency response: 5Hz - 100kHz (+0/-3 dB)
* Signal-to-noise ratio: 90dBA
* RCA and speaker level inputs
* Blue LED lighting provides gentle illumination
* Slim design easily fits in tight spaces

Will these amps work with the subs? Recommendations for other amps?

The only power figure that is really meaningful is the one for RMS. Both of the amps you have links to are great amps. The Rockford-Fosgate would be a good choice to power just your front speakers. The Sony to power both front and rear. Neither of them are very good at powering subs. Subs need a lot of power. And look at the Rockford-Fosgate bridged RMS rating - 200 watts - that’s only 100 watts per sub (they will share the power). They will just barely make a noise with 100 watts. And the Sony isn’t suited to powering subs even as a sideline. It appears that 2 of the channels can be bridged to produce 250 watts but what are you doing with the other channels? It’s just wasted.

So you have subs with a power handling capability of from 100-500 watts RMS (2 subs each power range 50-250 watts). The more watts within the power range that you use to drive them, the louder they will play.

For subs, your best choice for power, cost, and installation will be a dedicated subwoofer amplifier, commonly referred to as a monoblock. The monoblock operates as a Class D amplifier which is more efficient and ultimately less costly.

You can buy the Rockford-Fosgate amp online at www.crutchfield.com for $197.99. The Sony for $199.99. With either of these, your subs will be driven at less than half of their potential volume. Here is a better amp cheaper (Alpine MRP-M500)

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Alpine-MRP-M500.html?o=m&showAll=Y&tp=115

It’s $20 less ($179.99) than the multichannels and provides a full 250 watts RMS to each of your subs. I can guarantee you that if you drive your subs with either of the linked amps, you will be disappointed.

V123BP subwoofer enclosure with V218XT 2-channel amplifier

V218XT 2-channel amplifier

» 150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
» variable high- and low-pass filters (50-250 Hz, 12 dB per octave)
» variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)
» 10-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» speaker- and preamp-level inputs
» 10-5/16"W x 2-1/2"H x 10-5/16"D
» warranty: 2 years

V123BP bandpass subwoofer enclosure

» two 12" spruce pulp woofers with treated foam surrounds
» bandpass enclosure
» black carpet
» molded window and 4 tuned aluminum ports
» frequency response: 25-400 Hz
» 4-ohm stereo impedance (2 sets of terminals)
» recommended power range: 80-600 watts RMS (300 watts per woofer)
» sensitivity: 93 dB
» 28-1/2"W x 15-1/8"H x 17-3/8"D
» warranty: 2 years (woofers only)
it cost’s $250

Not really.
Visonik amps are way overrated.
The bandpass box and subs need 600 watts RMS at 4 ohms.
If the amplifier can be bridged at 4 ohms, it will will give you 300 watts RMS, which is half what the box needs.