Porch Enclosure

Of course it can. I think it was Einstein who said it is difficult to make things fool proof because fools are so damn ingenious. The question is: is this a wise thing to do? The answer is: it depends. What type of environment is it going into? How long do you expect it to last? What are the consequences if it fails? Give some thought to the engineering design considerations and, if necessary, get familiar with the concepts of corrosion, creep, fatigue, CTE mismatch, and similar processes. Then make an engineering judgment. So long as you have thought it through and can justify your answer in due regard to the consequences of failure, you should be fine.

Right now i am looking at putting 2, 50-300 watts RMS, 900watts peak, 10" Alpine subs in the back of my 2000 chevy S-10 ZR2 Extended cab truck. What would be the best type of sub-enclosure? I listen to mostly hard rock and some rap if that matters, so i think i want something with a lot of thump. Also, is there any advantage to having 2 seperate boxes, or one box with 2 sub enclosures? Thanks.

You neglect to say how large the amplifier is that will be driving this subwoofer - that is key.

You should use an amplifier that is at least 6 times the power of your "satelite" or front speakers in your truck. If you love bass, use 8 times. My home system has 60 watts for all the satelites, and 500 for my 15" sub … just a reference point.

Given, then, that you have enough power, you should go with a SEALED enclosure. A sealed enclosure is slightly less efficient, but it has a deeper frequency response and a flatter sound - many ported enclosures will "boom" at a specific note or frequency - VERY annoying. If you have enough power behind the sub, then the efficiency does not matter and thus everything else is a benefit.

The THICKNESS of the wall is important in a subwoofer. If the particle board is not at least 3/4" thick, move on to something else.

Lastly - 1 or 2 enclosures. Ideally, the answer is 1 enclosure - then the two speakers can "couple" and work together to move more air - and get deeper and louder. However, things change in a car. In theory, low base tones are non-directional - your ear can’t tell where they are coming from. But in a small enclosure like your truck, your brain will figure it out. Having two cabinets will allow you to evenly distribute the thump in your cab.

Bonus: one thing I’ve seen done is removing the seat in your rear cab and replacing it with a subcabinet that is the width of your truck, but only like 6" high, with foam and upholstry to match and act like a seat. Its been known to make girlfriends very happy.

Best.

I am making a custom subwoofer enclosure, but i need to know how to build a connection terminal such as the ones in industrial sub boxes. It looks like a small clamp or a screw on clamp.

my favorite way which is really simple and obvious is just drill a small hole to put the wires through. This can be handy if your trying to make a very clean install and hide the wires

Okay.. So I recently bought a Chameleon 7 days ago and had to provide him with only a small plastic enclosure and not enough heat.

I currently have a Computer lamp going over him for heat and lighting for now because I have yet to purchase the neccesities.

I plan on doing it today.
I have been feeding him 6 pinheads a day (feeding crickets carrots)
misting 3 times a day (when I wake up, get home from school, and sleep)

I keep him the computer light for 13 hours a day.

That’s basically it.

I plan on buying him a UVB light and heater.
A calcium food for the crickets as well as the solid water stuff.

A cricket home thing so i can easily put 20ish crickets in there and just feed them all..

a new 2 by 2 by 3 repatrium (4 sided ventilation)
Pothos Plants
a rock wall for the back to help just a tad with humidity and the scalability(if thats a word)
Okay I understand But it was a sudden thing. My dad bought it for me.

Just out of no where.
Not caring about what it took.

Will this shorten his life?
going through all of this must be big time stress for him.

I just want to be able to provide him with what he needs.
Is everything I listed good for him!?

I need to know asap.
None of these even deserve a best answer…
#1 will get it just because he gave me the best idea.

Everyone says the same stupid ass thing..
I get it..
When he comes home with it without saying a thing what am I supposed to do?

god damn..

You should have bought the equipment and had it set up and running at the right temperature and humidity before you bought the chameleon and not after.They do stress alot easier than most lizards and stress is one of the biggest killers of chameleons.you have gone about this the wrong way round.get it into the right set up as soon as poss or there is a good chance it will die,especially if it is only young.

I know that NEMA standards are not, since they neither test nor certify any products, and I’m assuming that the IEC’s IP Standards are the same way, but I just want to be sure.

Standards are simply agreements on common terms.

The question of whether adherence to a standard is mandatory depends on the legal jurisdiction in which the installation takes place. It is possible that the "Authority Having Jurisdiction" (that’s the generic term for the electrical inspection agency that determines what is acceptable in your area) may require compliance with certain standards.

Okay, I have a trampoline and when we bought it a few years ago it didn’t have an enclosure. We thought okay, we don’t really need one anyway because we didn’t allow anyone to do flips and stuff. Well now we want one because i am starting gymnastics and i would feel more comfortable with an enclosure. So i was wondering do you measure from where the poles are end to end or from where the black fabric starts form end to end. thanks in advance!

just inside the springs cause u dont want to step on the springs. bu just outside the black part so u can have as much room as possible to jump

I think it will be some version of firewire?

Should i just buy the enclosure and fit my own sata drive in it or how do you do it…….

I would personally just get an enclosure, and fit your own Sata Drive, I use the Akasa Integral External Enclosures, both with 500Gb Sata II 300 Drives, connected via ESATA, but even using them on USB2 is quite fast too.
The reason Y i like these enclosures is they look cool, and can connect either PATA or SATA drives inside, also on the back they have USB 2.0 and ESATA connections, and can be configured in any combination u like.

where can i download the program to measure sub woofer enclosure dimensions and ports diameters? thank you

WinISD
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

I also have Bluabox.exe. A program by Blaupunkt (DOS based, works in XP just fine) that I’ve used to design boxes with. Your more than welcome to have a copy.

sparky3489@yahoo.com

i would use 3/4 inch medium density fiberboard, it works the best for sound quality, and also looks. speaker cover fabric, helps when applying fiberglass. steel mesh to help suport it better. and also body filler to help it look like a pro.

I have a pair of MA HK100XC 10 inch subs. here are the specs:Power Handling Capabilities:
1000 Watts
500 Watts RMS
Patented Chrome Die Cast Basket
Compatible with Sealed and Ported Enclosures
Dual 4-Ohm Aluminum Voice Coil
240 Oz. (15 pound) Double Stacked Magnet
Mounting Depth: 5.8"
Mounting Diameter: 9.3"

what is the best amp to power those the best way possible? also with those subs being powered would i need to get a high output alternator and change the wires to my battery and the ground wires? Thanks in advance for your answers.

with those subs (4ohm DVC) you can wire them up to get impedance’s of 1 or 4ohms on one amp (you could power each sub with its own amp and get impedance’s of 2 or 8ohms)- the lower the impedance at the amp the lower the sound quality but the easier/cheaper it is to power (most amps are not stable below 2ohms and would run hot and go into protection mode a lot)
here is a link to help you with your wiring options http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

so the amp needed will have 1000watts RMS @ the correct impedance (or two 500watts RMS amps) also go for a mono amp, not a 2channel amp- here is a nice site to get your amp from (low prices) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

as far as the big three, it depends on the make of your car, if it is a truck/suv with a v8 you should be ok, if its a smaller car you may need to upgrade