Porch Enclosure

hi
i m working on my corn mill and my corn mill need new electric or diesel motor with 15 hp. i need to calculate the heat output of a 15 HP motor and then use that data to determine the heat radiated at(btw grinding unit and motor at different distances);
1 inch away
2 inches away
3 inches away
…uptil 6 inches away.
the motor info is :
Baldor JPM2333T 15HP 1755RPM 3 PHASE 60HZ 254JP 0748M TEFC F MOTOR

Catalog Number: JPM2333T
Specification Number: 07H301X798
Horsepower: 15
Voltage: 208-230/460
Hertz: 60
Phase: 3
Full Load Amps: 41-37.8/18.9
Usable at 208 Volts: N/A
RPM: 1755
Frame Size: 254JP
Service Factor: 1.15
Rating: 40C AMB-CONT
Locked Rotor Code: J
NEMA Design Code: A
Insulation Class: F
Full Load Efficiency: 89.5
Power Factor: 82
Enclosure: TEFC
Baldor Type: 0748M
DE Bearing: 6309
ODE Bearing: 6307
Electrical Specification Number: 07WGX798
Mechanical Specification Number: 07H301
Base: RG
Mounting: F1
i need help like how to calculate and which eqn i have to use it.
really need help please please.
thanks

The rated mechanical output of the motor is 15 Hp or 15 X 746 = 11190 watts.
The nameplate efficiency is 89.5% or 0.895.
Using losses = output power X (1-efficiency) / efficiency), the losses are 11190 X (1-.895) / 0.895 = 1313 watts.

The motor’s nameplate rated ambient temperature is 40C. The performance information on the Baldor web site indicates that the typical temperature rise of the windings at full load is 80C. The motor’s surface temperature would be considerably less that the winding temperature, but assume that the surface temperature is 120C or 393K.

The radiated heat in watts can be calculated using q(W) = rT^4Ae, where r is the Steffan-Boltzman constant = 5.67E-8, T is the Kelvin temperature, A is the surface area in m^2 and e is the emissivity. The surface area can be estimated at 0.6 m^2 from the drawing provided on the Baldor web site. The emissivity of gray painted steel can be estimated to be 0.9. The maximum radiated heat can then be calculated to be 730 watts. The remaining 583 watts can be presumed to be transferred to the air by direct conduction. The radiated energy would also be absorbed by the air if not transferred to a fairly close object.

Obviously the heat dissipated by a diesel engine would be considerably more since the efficiency is only about 30%. However, quite a bit of the heat could be carried out of the area by piping the cooling water to a remote radiator.

Revision:
A small diesel engine is going to be a lot less efficient than 30%. I think 15% may be more likely.

We have a 30 year old rectangular trampoline. Its been in the fam for years and is now being passed down to me for my children. I need an enclosure for it but its so old that none of the available sites can accommodate attachments for it. Can anyone figure how to rig one? I know gymnastics centers don’t have commercial enclosures, they just use netting and ropes attached to the floor and ceilings. My trampoline is outside with no trees.

Do you mean an enclosure to protect your children?

If the bed will be stationary, then it means (without seeing it) that you probably need to put posts into the ground. You’ll need to also create a metal frame linking each post at the same level as the trampoline frame as the tramp frame itself usually does this.

I suppose it should resemble this picture:

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vipkids.co.uk/Trampolines%2520GB/safety-enclosure02_md.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.vipkids.co.uk/tgt_trampoline-rctdenc..htm&usg=__8e4Xt-jnXn0IerK2arE94OG_JuI=&h=240&w=350&sz=34&hl=en&start=4&um=1&tbnid=13Wl0JzGgvhtmM:&tbnh=82&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3Drectangular%2Btrampoline%2Benclosure%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rlz%3D1C1CHMI_en-USGB292GB304%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

…but instead of the poles are your posts. If it folds away, you would still have room to manoeuvre. After that just use the same type of netting as the normal enclosures in your DIY store use. Or you even buy the attachments and then fix them to the respective post.

You will need some thick foam padding to then go round the posts if they present a danger.

If I find a better way, I’ll let you know!

_

I would really like it to show 3D pictures too.

It depends on what you need it for. If you just want to see what a shower would look like in your own bathroom then you could try something like Google Sketchup. However, if you are an installer or specifier of custom/bespoke frameless glass showers, then you should look at Smart-Shower (http://www.smart-shower.com/ ). The software will take any shower configuration and quickly perform the calculations necessary to generate accurate 3D drawings and calculate all aspects of the job including glass sizes, hardware lists and costing.

The 3D pictures are in colour too. You can even animate the doors if you’re keen!

"For my job, I need to carry a bag of tech gear around with me all day. I’ve been able to cut down on the cables I carry by using only retractable cables, but my other devices are still bulky. I’m looking for the smallest FireWire 2.5" drive enclosure on the market. It seems that many of the sites selling enclosures don’t list their dimensions and some of the slimmest enclosures are USB-only, but 6-pin FireWire is a requirement. What is the slimmest enclosure you know of?"

You can get firewire 2.5 inch enclosures from Atlast Solutions…they are the same size as the 2.5 laptop HDD (well 1-2 mm bigger to allow the HDD to be put in )
Go to http://atlastsolutions.co.uk/shop/
You can ring them if you wish …the number should be on their website
OK… I have measured the firewire enclosure I got from them
its 130mm X 80mm X 13mm

PS..when I spoke to them I spoke to a chap called Jonathon or Richard (can’t remember which…think it was Jonathon….very friendly, helpful & gave me time. I have bought enclosures elsewhere aswell (usb tho)…Atlast Solutions firewire enclosure was far better built ..very solid, not flimsy like the others.

PSPS Just had a look at the one shown on their website..I got a slimmer one from them than this & they supplied me with a superior firewire gold plated lead so that it worked fine without mains power supply..Ring them to ask because they don’t always show all of the ranges on their website.

I have 2×12” sub woofers that i want to install in my 1997 Toyota 4Runner but dont Know which enclosure will give me maximum bass.
I was thinking about a bandpass box

sealed is the best, i have the same truck and year,and i run 3 12’s and your amp is important also,i run rockford fosgate amp and 12’s baby,yea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,im a INSTALLER also .i beat so hard you can hear me coming behind you on the innerstate.doing 70 while it’s storming,

V123BP subwoofer enclosure with V218XT 2-channel amplifier

V218XT 2-channel amplifier

» 150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
» variable high- and low-pass filters (50-250 Hz, 12 dB per octave)
» variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)
» 10-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» speaker- and preamp-level inputs
» 10-5/16"W x 2-1/2"H x 10-5/16"D
» warranty: 2 years

V123BP bandpass subwoofer enclosure

» two 12" spruce pulp woofers with treated foam surrounds
» bandpass enclosure
» black carpet
» molded window and 4 tuned aluminum ports
» frequency response: 25-400 Hz
» 4-ohm stereo impedance (2 sets of terminals)
» recommended power range: 80-600 watts RMS (300 watts per woofer)
» sensitivity: 93 dB
» 28-1/2"W x 15-1/8"H x 17-3/8"D
» warranty: 2 years (woofers only)
it cost’s $250

Not really.
Visonik amps are way overrated.
The bandpass box and subs need 600 watts RMS at 4 ohms.
If the amplifier can be bridged at 4 ohms, it will will give you 300 watts RMS, which is half what the box needs.

im planing to get my first pet snake but im not sure if i should get a glass tank or a plastic container

honestly here plastic containers are a poor mans route to a enclosure of any pet including snakes. and any animal at that is an investment period. although depending on the type of snake corn, ball, garter, rat, king milk, etc. a plastic container wouldnt be a bad idea to start off the first month or two in jus to get used to you and relieve stress. after that a regular enclosure is a must. as for RTB burmese retic tree boas and pythons a regualr enclosure is a must from the get go

I have a Firewire external hard drive (portable size) with a damaged port but I believe the drive itself is fine. I’m wondering if I can somehow crack it out of the enclosure it came with and put it into a new USB case. I imagine there would be a power issue of some sort but any expertise would be appreciated. Thanks!

More than likely it is a SATA hard drive. As long as the USB external hard drive enclosure you are going to use is SATA as well then you should be fine. You’ll know because it only plugs in one way.

I have an old hard disk that is either win3.1 or win 95. I have attached it to a usb hard drive enclosure to a win-xp machine. XP will recognise the enclosure and disk but the hard drive will not appear on the "my computer" panel. I would like to copy this very ancient data.

hmm, I have done this before so am trying to recall how. It shows a letter E or F so it recognizes the port but doesn’t know what it is. If its 3.1 I don’t think XP will read it. But you are not at that point yet.

I think what I did in this case was to reload Win98 as a second OS. Then reboot, choose 98, then you have to go through search for hardware, and get the drivers for the USB hub, because I don’t think Win98 SE had them.

Have you tried add new hardware with XP? Update driver? Or add hardware, choose a device from list, select memory storage device? If no one finds it for you I will check back.

i have two subwoofers and want to build a sealed enclosure to fit both. manufacturers details state 32litres typical sealed box volume. do i double this when using the two subs? or is there another formula?

You should make a seperate chamber for each sub, it is much more practical.

Multichamber enclosures are usually the best. Not because they are beneficial in the sound but due to the fact that they are more practical. In fact, a single chamber enclosure would sound the same as a multichamber enclosure given the same circumstances. They have many advantages over single chambered enclosures. If one of your subwoofers is not performing as well as the other then the sound of both of the subwoofers will be effected. If a subwoofer is to blow in a single chamber enclosure it could cause your other subwoofer to unload. If this happens then you could wreck that subwoofer as well. Also, if you ever blow a subwoofer in a single chamber enclosure you will not be able to use your working subwoofer(s). In a multichamber enclosure you would be able to continue to use your other subwoofer(s) if one is to blow or be otherwise ruined. One other benefit of a multichamber enclosure is that it will add support to the enclosure and helps prevent flexing.