Porch Enclosure

i am planning to buy a new subwooer for my new sedan will enclosure type suits it will want an answer soon regarding it.
am planning to buy a new subwooer for my new sedan, will enclosure type suits it, i am having an alpineee system in it planning to buy a 1200watts sub will want an answer soon regarding it

since it is going in a car it will be in the trunk, which means that you will not really be able to hear the "lack" of sound quality. so i would go with a ported box because they hit harder,
and since it is a new car i would not throw anything too outrageous in the trunk because it will slowly tear the car apart (loosen nuts and bolts making it rattle and squeak, happened to my new car) and don’t forget the Dynamat http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=181250&i=15410135&search=Dynamat+VENDORID154&searchdisplay=Dynamat&tp=2277

15" Crunch Groundpounder
SPECIFICATIONS
700 Watts RMS
1400 Watts Max
Blue Illuminated Speaker Cone
2-Ohm Dual Voice Coils
100 Oz. Double Stacked Magnet Assembly
2.5” 4-Layer Hi-Temp
Aluminum Voice-Coils
Chrome Steel Speaker Frame
w/ Rubber Front Gasket
Glass-Kevlar Woven Dust Cap
Integrated Spider-Tinsel Lead
1.2” Reinforced Rubber Surround
Rubber Magnet Boot
Chromed Back-Plate
Push Terminals Connections
Sealed Enclosure Volume:
2.0 (Cubic Ft.)
Vented Enclosure Volume:
2.5 (Cubic Ft.)
Sold Individually

AMP is a HIFONICS ZX-6400 ZEUS 700watt RMS

can be found at :

http://www.pimpmycar.net/brands_hifonics-amp-multi-channel-zx-6400.html

let me know what you guys think about this setup need to purchase tomorrow 4/1/2007.

Thanks

you dont want a 4channel amp to power a sub. get a mono amp that pushes around 700rms, unless ur using 2 subs then u want it pushing around 1400rms.

I’ve bumped the brake light on my wife’s new Vauxhall Corsa into a lamppost. The red plastic on the fog light has cracked off. About how much should I expect to pay to replace presumably the whole light enclosure? Also, is it legal in the meantime to tape the red plastic bits back into place?

If you tape it so that the light is showing correctly at the rear i don’t think that the police would stop you on the road but the car wouldn’t pass MOT with it taped up.You need to buy the whole lamp.It will cost you the price of a 2 pairs of new shoes for your wife

Basically I set the jumper to master, and nothing is happening.The computer recognizes it’s a hard drive, but it’s not showing under my computer. After going into Computer Management, it showed that it’s Unknown and Unreadable. What’s going on?
@ Wiaam T: I didn’t format it, but I don’t know how. I’m using Vista now, and the steps for XP are different. Can you please tell me where to format it on Vista?
Also, is it possible to not format it? Because if I do format it, won’t I lose all my data on there?

Hi there!
Your hard drive has been setup and formatted right?
I remember that i used to have problems like that with the casings i sold.
IIRC the jumper does not need to be in any specific place. IE master, slave or CS, cause it will be used as external USB hdd.

Tell me, what hdd do you have?
And (excuse me for asking) are you sure the jumper is not perhaps on limit drive to 32gigs after it has been formatted?

Check on that for me plz.

Good luck!

Vista might just see it as a foreign device, that it does not like. The hdd might be damaged. A scan disk could sort it out, hopefully.
But check out the things i mailed you about.

I just put my new Alpine type R 12 in a 13×16x18 ported enclosure and found out that there is an air leak in the top corner of the box. You can’t tell when the volume is low but when it is turned up it makes a loud buzzing noise. What would be the best way to fix this?

Construction adhesive would be the best way to fix it because it is what they use to seal the enclosures. You will have to take the carpet off and apply the adhesive, which comes in a caulking tube, to the outside of the enclosure. Try to work it in either using a plastic bag over your finger or some type of gloves. I think liquid nails make a decent kind of construction adhesive. You can find it at any hardware store.

in other words, you know whenever you build the frame and the ring you put legs to hold the ring in place, most speaker boxes i see made out of fiberglass is just the molded box, what all do they take out jus the legs, or the ring and everything, just wanted to know, as whenever layin plexiglass what would be the best way to go about.

The main enclosure is always built then the custom fiberglass is molded around it. Having fiberglass as the only material left makes a vey poor sounding box.

More on enclosures here http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

I am going to buy the Kenwood bass package (KAC-5203 2-channel amplifier and two 2-W110S 10" 8-ohm subwoofers) at Cruthfield and I was wondering what size box should I get for my two ten inch subs. Will any dual ten inch enclosures work? And does it matter if its vented or sealed?

In the manual for the subs it should give you a recomended box size in liters. Get as close to this size as possible for best performance (most boxes are normally close to the same literage)
Ported is best for these kind of systems,
Sealed is normally for deeper high powered systems

Ok hopefully my final question!
I decided to go with the Rockford Fosgate - Punch 12" 4-Ohm Dual Subwoofers with Enclosure - Black/Silver

Now (remeber im new to car audio) what kind of amp should i get for this sub?
Here are the product features for Sub:
# Includes two 12" subwoofers and a dual subwoofer enclosure
# Handles up to 500W peak power (250W RMS)
# High-modulus closed conical polypropylene
# Die-cast aluminum motor cover
# Vented enclosure
# Double-stacked magnets
# High-flow, low-noise port design; wired for the included subwoofers
# Frequency response: 26Hz-250Hz
# Impedence: 4 ohms
# Sensitivity: 86dB

Here are some amps im looking at:
1)Rockford Fosgate - Punch 600W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel Amplifier (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8266388&st=+P200-2+amp&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1170289781181)
* 600W peak output @ 4 ohms, bridged
* 600W peak output @ 2 ohms
* 300W peak output @ 4 ohms
* 200W RMS (continuous), bridged
* 200W RMS (continuous) @ 2 ohms
* 100W RMS (continuous) @ 4 ohms
* Adjustable 40-400Hz crossover
* Dynamic Thermal Management prevents overheating
* Bass boost; on-board Punch EQ
* 4-gauge power and ground input
2)Sony - Xplod 500W Bridgeable Multichannel Amplifier
(http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8383714&type=product&id=1179165803051)
* 500 watts peak power
* 50W x 4 RMS power @ 4 ohms, <1% THD
* 95W x 2 + 250W x 1 @ 4 ohms
* 80Hz high-pass/low-pass filter switch
* Frequency response: 5Hz - 100kHz (+0/-3 dB)
* Signal-to-noise ratio: 90dBA
* RCA and speaker level inputs
* Blue LED lighting provides gentle illumination
* Slim design easily fits in tight spaces

Will these amps work with the subs? Recommendations for other amps?

The only power figure that is really meaningful is the one for RMS. Both of the amps you have links to are great amps. The Rockford-Fosgate would be a good choice to power just your front speakers. The Sony to power both front and rear. Neither of them are very good at powering subs. Subs need a lot of power. And look at the Rockford-Fosgate bridged RMS rating - 200 watts - that’s only 100 watts per sub (they will share the power). They will just barely make a noise with 100 watts. And the Sony isn’t suited to powering subs even as a sideline. It appears that 2 of the channels can be bridged to produce 250 watts but what are you doing with the other channels? It’s just wasted.

So you have subs with a power handling capability of from 100-500 watts RMS (2 subs each power range 50-250 watts). The more watts within the power range that you use to drive them, the louder they will play.

For subs, your best choice for power, cost, and installation will be a dedicated subwoofer amplifier, commonly referred to as a monoblock. The monoblock operates as a Class D amplifier which is more efficient and ultimately less costly.

You can buy the Rockford-Fosgate amp online at www.crutchfield.com for $197.99. The Sony for $199.99. With either of these, your subs will be driven at less than half of their potential volume. Here is a better amp cheaper (Alpine MRP-M500)

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500/Alpine-MRP-M500.html?o=m&showAll=Y&tp=115

It’s $20 less ($179.99) than the multichannels and provides a full 250 watts RMS to each of your subs. I can guarantee you that if you drive your subs with either of the linked amps, you will be disappointed.

Has anyone heard of a hack to use a webcam as a portable video camera?

Ideally I’d like to connect a webcam and data storage device that uses pro duo cards or flash cards.

The obvious first choice would be to use PSP and a webcam, but the only option here seems to be to buy the go!cam. Connecting a webcam to a PSP may be possible with homebrew but the information online is not clear.

Are there any other solutions that anyone has heard of? Ideally I’d like a small light setup that I can attach to a rowing shell (like olympic rowing boat). It needs to be light, small, battery powered, and cheaper than the go!cam at about $50.

Putting a laptop in the boat is not an option.

I’ll also need to be able to build waterproof enclosures for it out of plastic plumbing parts or sealed kayaking type storage boxes from MEC.

Thanks in advance

Nope…….

The only way I would think of would be a slug….
A linksys nslu2 with flashed firmware will operate a webcam, noprob and record things onto a hard drive or a flash drive….

The NSLU2 computer is about $20….on ebay…but would require big battery…

i bought this 40 gig external hard drive, which turns out is just a seagate hdd in a usb hdd enclosure, but my laptop(windows xp sp2) won’t even recognize that it is plugged into my computer. it came with drivers but it was only needed for win 98. i’ve tried installing these drivers, but it doesn’t help. i’ve tried everything. i’ve looked in disk manager, and it isn’t showing up. how can i make this work?

it depends. do u have an old comp? if u do then it could be because u have a 1.0 usb and the external HD has a 2.0 USB i dunno wat else could have happened though…