Porch Enclosure

Brand: Western Digital
Series: Caviar SE16
Model :WD7500AAKS
Interface: SATA 3.0Gb/s
Capacity:750GB
RPM: 7200 RPM
Cache: 16MB
Average Seek Time: 8.9ms
Average Write Time: 10.9ms
Average Latency: 4.2ms
Form Factor 3.5"

If I connect this hard drive through an external enclosure to a computer and boot it with windows xp. What kind of slowness would I experience? Would watching a video be slower if I booted it xp on this usb external enclosure hard drive and watched videos? any other disadvantages from booting it from plugged inside the computer with a sata power/data cable?
I assume all external enclosure cases for hard drives are usb’s.. If not, are there any other better? I don’t know what firewire is..?

Thanks.

Technically this will work, however I do not recommend it. USB is hot swappable (can be unplugged while in operation), but your main operating drive cannot be. If a power failure causes system shutdown, immense portions of data can be lost. This can lead to an unbootable OS, missing files, etc.

Faster forms of external data transfer would be Firewire 800, or ESATA connections. ESATA is very reliant on a solid battery backup as it does not support hot swap at all (the drivers you can download do not work!)

You will need a motherboard that supports booting to a USB device (typically more expensive)

this product costs 300 dollars for the two 12 inch subwoofers, with the box, and a 1000 peak output @ 4 ohms amplifier.
Is this a good system?

make sure the subs are either 8 ohms or have dual 4 ohm voice coils otherwise you’ll never get the impedences to match.

Other than that I can’t tell you much. Othe helpfull info would be ported vs. sealed box? RMS power output of amp (much more important than peak power) RMS power handling of subs, and type of sound you want.

A 1000 peak amp will RMS at 500 Watts at most. That’s 250W per 12" sub, which is not a lot. With a sealed box, this will make a very muddy muffled sound that will only be loud near the boxes resonant frequency. With a ported box, you will get something more usable, as there will be a resonance for the box, and one for the port, giving a broader frequency response.

Honestly, if the power is 500W RMS as I suspect, I’d run 10’s instead of 12’s if you want it to have any sort of respectable hit to it.

i just built a 140GB hard drive for music and movies and i was wondering since i don’t have a fan in my enclosure, how dangerous would it be to listen to my music off the hard drive for hours at a time? would the drive fry? and could i just keep it cool some other way?

Its an aluminum enclosure by the way I’ve read that makes a difference.

I removed all my fans from my old (more than 5 years) computer and the hard drive is even older and for 2 years no problems. So don’t worry about overheating the hard drive. I don’t even have a fan for my processor and still no problems. To learn WIndows secrets click on my picture and under "visit my website" is a link to my website "WIndows Secrets"

I want to do something like this: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/212/464187815_526bb0c875.jpg

But no buttons, simply a plastic faceplate / enclosure that essentially is an Ipod dock.

I want to build it to fit into the "storage compartment" which is below the head unit; you can see it in this pic: http://www.ssd4u.com/Woodcorp/Chrysler/02PTCRUISERSTAINLESSANDBURLJ.JPG

nothing fancy, I just want it to look clean and well integrated, I was thinking taking clay and molding it into that space in the pic, then using it to make a form.
OR
Use Sculpey III polymer clay, but I don’t know how that will work in this application.

Obviously cars get very hot so it will need to withstand the heat

The clay would be a good idea. after you bake it it can withstand immense heat. to build the enclosure you would have to get the dimensions of your ipod and make it a few mm bigger on each side, that way it will slide in and out without scuffing your ipod, but still tight enough that it will stay in. put a piece or two of heavy construction paper or poster board around your ipod, so you get a good gap, then make it like a box and put the clay around it. you can also use plaster of paris and make a mold using that instead of clay, no baking needed for that. then get an usb extension cable and mount it into the back of your enclosure, making sure it is centered so you don’t have any troubles plugging your ipod in. then run the usb extension cable into your CD deck/receiver in the back if it has a port like that so that now when you plug it in it will play through your car audio.

All I want to know is what is a external hard drive enclosure?

It is an enclosure to use a hard drive externally.

ive read about usb hardisk enclosures and that they can make your hardrive act as an external hardrive so that you can transfer data etc but i was wondering if this works with a laptop hardisk, if it is safe to take the hardisk out of my laptop, is it reliable, successful or even possible after i have heard the clicking noise of death and had blue screen and IDE error ?? please help

Look here.

I actually have gone through the installation all by myself, but evidently I did it wrong. It’s probably the wiring because my 2 10" subs will stop working if I turn the volume over about 13 or turn the gain on my amp over about half way.

My sound system consists of 2 10" subs one is a JL Audio W3 and a Phoenix Gold Octane R "and yes I know you’re not suppose to mix subs but the two 10" Phoenix Gold subs I have did the same thing when I tried them too" they are in a double ported enclosure, "I am not sure about how they are wired because I am not that electronic savvy and don’t know how to explain it" They are both running to a Soundstream XStream Amp XTA240.2
2 x 60 / 120 Watt RMS an 4 / 2 Ohm Highpass 50-500 Hz, Lowpass 30-150 Hz Line Outputs, and my main deck is a Panasonic CQ-C1305U 4×50watt radio, If you could instruct me on how to hook all these items up in conjunction to get it all to work correctly that would be great. I would guess my problem lies with my wiring or my battery that is 7 years old.
The JL is dual 4-ohm and it looks like the PG octane is also dual 4-ohm!!!

Thanks, josh

The purpose of the gain is to match the signal volts RMS coming from the source (CD player, etc.) to the input of the amp to prevent clipping (damage by over powering).

Here is a guide that will help you set the gain correctly http://www.box.net/shared/uchv4dbk88

You’ll need a multi-meter (AC voltmeter, $15 from Radio$hack), Microsoft Excel and a way to burn an audio CD from an MP3.

If you don’t have Excel, use this link http://www.box.net/shared/nkkw1dhk4g

See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

We are planning on making a big enclosure out of wood and mesh. What kind of wood would be best, or, better yet, what kind of wood should I specifically stay away from?

You need to stay away from Cedar and Pine. Both of which are poisonous to reptiles. Some people argue that pine is an ok material to use but others have proof that it can make the animal sick. So why risk it?

Any wood but Pine and Cedar no matter how many layers of protectant you use over it.

Good luck building the enclosure

i am planning to DIY because i am on a thight budget…
pls give the exact measures of the lenght, width and height of the enclose.
I am just a newbie in setting up car audio so pls. help me out.
any answers will be highly appeciated.
thanks in advance.

according to the link, you need an enclosure for the 10” sub of about 1 to 1.5 cu.ft., so a little over 1′x1′x1′ to 1.5′x1′x1′ to accomodate the driver.
For the tweeters, i would just mount them on a solid surface without an enclosure.

An overview of the features of the KC31 Series External Disk Drives sold by Atlast! Solutions in the UK

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